Sunday 3 March 2013

Old Times with Betjeman

Date: 18th Feb 2013
Purpose of trip: To see Harold Pinter's 'Old Times' in the West End

Now that I remember it, I did go off the leash last year to see a similar Pinter menage a trois at the same London Theatre which has taken the playwright's name. That too featured Kristin Scott Thomas, who I find quite mesmerising, in Pinter's 'Betrayal'. Peter is usually my first choice of companion for anything like this, although it is a while since he came to the theatre with me. But it was meant to be as it fell during my half term holiday and on a day when he had no lectures. We decided to stay overnight and try and fit a few other things in as well.

When it came to it I had a long wishlist and Pete had his own agenda. Before I had even left the station I had things I wanted to see. I've written here before about St Pancras station. At Christmas hubby indulged me with a book about the restoration of the station and the hotel. I was probably a trainspotter in a previous life as I drink in the technical details as readily as the stylistic points. And I couldn't resist regurgitating bits of it to bore Pete with. That was the first time we crossed paths with John Betjeman that day.



I had wanted to visit Bedford Park and Hampstead Garden Suburb but decided both really needed more time than we could give them on this occasion so we decided to head for the city. Before we went Peter wanted to nip next door to the British Library. It was a place I knew nothing about but as a keen student of Scandinavian architecture Pete was keen to see this piece of Swedish Brutalism (have I got that right, Pete?) He was kicking himself for not bringing his good camera but managed to take a few snaps on his phone.


 
 
 

Next stop was Kensington where we admired the buildings of the Natural History Museum and the V&A before heading into the dark depths of the Brompton Oratory. I first visited soon after I became a Catholic in 1984 and with its Latin mass and dark glories it felt like a place of pilgrimage. Since then I suppose I have visited many churches and cathedrals and the Oratory didn't have quite the same impact on me this time.

From Kensington we made our way on foot to Chelsea to see John Dando Sedding's "Arts and Crafts Cathedral". Pete was rather amused to find that it was Sir John Betjeman who coined this phrase. Holy Trinity, Sloane Square is perhaps best known for the Burne-Jones East Window. It was indeed impressive but the parts I liked the most were the windows in the north wall and the angel lectern.


There was a superb metalwork railing around the pulpit too which reminded me of Jugendstil metalwork we saw in the artists' colony at Darmstadt, Germany last year.

We were probably at pulpit saturation point by now so we took the tube back to Piccadilly Circus and went in search of Tokyo Fixed and then the Rapha Cycle Club.


Peter has joined the ranks of fixed gear cyclists and so has begun a familiar process. With Matt's motorcycle hobby, we have probably had several motorbikes come through our front door part by part over the last few years. Now it is Pete and cycles. Thankfully we came away with nothing bulkier than a water bottle. A very expensive, chic water bottle of course!

We had managed to fit a lot into our hours before the theatre but still had time for a leisurely meal at Prezzo on the Haymarket before turning back into Panton Street towards the Harold Pinter Theatre. There we saw 80 mins of Ms Scott Thomas alongside Lia Williams and Rufus Sewell in Pinter's Old Times. I'd like to claim to be a fan of Pinter but I have to confess I can't quite get to grips with it. Pete and I tried to work out what the whole thing was about on our way to our overnight accommodation at the mother-in-law's in Seven Kings. Only the following day when I did my homework did I discover that you are supposed to put your own interpretation on Pinter. So I guessed we had done what Pinter intended, we just felt that we had somehow missed the point. We both admitted it didn't detract from our enjoyment of the play.

We had hoped to be spending the following morning looking round the Olympic site in Stratford but had read that it was closed for redevelopment so instead we went off on the London Overground in the direction of Bethnal Green. We walked round in circles for a while looking for Brick Lane Bikes (fixed gear specialists again) but found it eventually. En route we passed (at least twice) the Boxpark at Shoreditch High Street. What a great idea!


Our final stop was The Black Friar. What a fabulous place. The building itself is quite interesting, occupying as it does a little corner plot near Blackfriars station.

 
Doesn't this look right up my street?

 
We sat right in front of this lovely window.

 
The pub style is very definitely tongue in cheek and has a quite playful feel to it. When Pete read that it was Sir John Betjeman who campaigned to save the pub back in the sixties I think he was beginning to sense there was a conspiracy afoot. It really was a coincidence though. Or maybe not. Maybe I should go and find out more about Sir J B as he may be a man after my own heart. What a great place The Black Friar is. I am so glad we made it before our train home and they served a pretty good cup of coffee too.



To take a sensible route back to St Pancras we walked to St Paul's for the tube. I'd forgotten St Paul's itself is also on my London tour wishlist but we had finally run out of time. When we eventually boarded the train back home it was hard to believe we'd had less than 24 hours in the big city but we had certainly made the best of them.

To downsize or upsize?

Is it really so long since I posted? The only real reason is that most of my travels have been sensible authorised affairs just lately. Mostly family outings that belong on the neglected family blog if anywhere. But I am starting to get out and about on my own a little more now.

This post only qualifies in part but I want to include it because it marks what I think might be a new direction for me.

My growing interest in historical building styles and a drive out with my friend Lesley got me wondering about this building.




It is Kelham Hall not too far from Newark. It is quite accessible so not too mysterious really but the first time I saw it I didn't know what it was and could only glimpse it through trees. Tantalisingly, the roadside lodge looks like this.


So you can see why I was keen to see more. The perfect opportunity came last year when hubby was persuaded to take me to an Art Deco fair at the hall. I have mixed feelings about Art Deco but I was curious and the opportunity to see the hall was not to be missed. I didn't buy anything at the fair but I did think a lot about some rather lovely tea sets afterwards. The hall didn't disappoint. A walk around outside showed the building to be interesting from all angles. As well as the original buildding there is now the Dome which looks like this from outside


 but like this on the inside


Quite unexpected. There is also a lovely carriage court with polychromatic brickwork that comes into its own at weddings as the Hall has a very busy life as a wedding venue.

Well last month I got the chance to see Kelham again. It was a very cold day but gloriously sunny so hubby, on chauffeur duty again took off towards the river with his camera while I went to my first ever Doll's House Fair. I have been thinking about one day having a dolls house but don't really have the room in our current house. But, having got so drawn into the world of old buildings, acquiring a miniature property now feels like a way of scratching my architectural itch. I had said I wouldn't buy anything at the fair, although there was plenty to take my fancy. I just wanted to see what was available so I could feed my dreams. I was disappointed not to see more houses for sale but I suppose most miniaturists only have one house at a time and are more interested in decorating and furnishing the one they have than investing in another. The most interesting stand for me was Little Pieces. I didn't expect an Arts and Crafts specialist at a local show like this. I was very tempted to buy a couple of Voysey chairs as a token of my long term intentions.



The thought of fitting out a little house is very appealing at the moment so I have already made an extensive wish list. The only thing holding me back (aside from the disapproval of those who would have to dance around it in our tiny living space) is the thought that until I actually make a purchase I can keep all my options open. Until then my dream house can take on many guises. But I think it is likely I will succumb long before we have a new real world house with the space to display the dream house. As they say, watch this space. I'm sure there's a reason why Miniatura coincides with Hobbycrafts at the NEC this month. The stars are aligning....

Sunday 10 May 2009

The Bluebell Walk


Date: 2nd May 2009
Purpose of trip: Enjoy the bluebells along the Sheffield Round Walk
Getting there: Train to Sheffield Midland. No 88 bus to Hunter's Bar
Travelling companions: None

I've written previously about my connection with Sheffield and what the place means to me. The Sheffield Round Walk takes in many of the city's parks and even touches on the edge of the Peak District. When I lived there before I walked part of the Round Walk on several occasions. In those days, the walk ended in Graves Park or possibly in Gleadless valley and was 10 miles long. I think I only ever did the whole walk in one go on one occasion. Since then, an extra 4 miles has been added to bring the walk full circle. This time I particularly wanted to walk the parts I hadn't done before, so I started at what is usually considered the end of the walk. Last year I walked across town to start the route at Hunter's Bar. This time I took a bus to Hunter's Bar to save time and blisters.

My reverse route took me immediately uphill from Hunter's Bar towards Psalter Lane, which I was familiar with as a student as the art faculty was there. I had a lot of memories of this area from being nanny to a family who lived close by and I was also a bridesmaid at the wedding of Anita and Barrie Bowden at St Andrew's church.


The first park on the walk was Chelsea Park. I'd never been there before, nor even been sure exactly where it was. But it led me out into Brincliffe Edge Wood. I had the vague impression that this was close to a bus route I regularly took to work back in the '80s. I then walked through the streets of Nether Edge to Abbeydale Road where I took a detour to buy an iced lolly.


The area around Little London Road has changed considerably since I left but I was pleased to see not only is Heeley Baths still standing but is still in use.











Close by is the Sheaf Valley Walk with its references to Sheffield's industrial heritage.

I passed under the railway line and then across Chesterfield Road towards Meersbrook Park. We lived quite close to this area in our final two years in Sheffield but I had never been in this park either. When I made it to the top of the hill I was stunned by the views of the city.

I stopped for a few moments, picking out landmarks I was familiar with and noting the new buildings and those still under construction. Breathtaking. I had been looking forward to seeing the Bishop's House in the park and wasn't disappointed.










It was between Meersbrook Park and the woodlands of Gleadless Valley that I got lost. My map wasn't detailed enough to show the name of the road I needed and I consequently walked round in circles for 15 minutes or so. Eventually I found my way into Ashes Wood and ended up making a detour from the walk again because of the poor map. Here I sat on a rough bench for quite a while, enjoying the sunshine, the smell of the bluebells and dancing butterflies. Sensing that I wasn't where I ought to be I dug out my 25 year old town street map but found I'd really come too far to rejoin the walk in the valley so I left the wood for an alternative route to Graves Park.

Graves was a far cry from the quiet of the valley, where I hadn't met another soul. It was full of families enjoying the good weather. I made a stop for refreshments and decided it was time to change into my walking boots. It felt like putting on a fresh pair of feet.



I'd chosen the best time to see the bluebells. Chancet, Park Bank and Ladies Spring Woods were all full of them. Not the invading Spanish bluebells which grow in the town gardens now but real English bluebells with their delicate arches. There were also delicate wood anemones and violets. But I was surprised to still see narcissi when there were already rhododendrons in flower in some places.











Emerging near Dore station, I crossed Abbeydale Road again and went into Ecclesall Woods. This is the woodland I most associate with the bluebells but the route of the walk doesn't seem to pass very close to the areas where most of the bluebells grow.



Next up was Whirlowbrook Park where I stopped for coffee and cake again. I needed to rest my feet and I do love the hall. Again, it features in happy memories of Sheffield, as our friends Barrie and Anita had their wedding reception here.











Heading for Ringinglow via Limb Valley, I managed better this year to avoid the marshes. I cheated actually, following a couple walking ahead of me.


I hadn't set out to walk the complete route. I had a number of opt out points in mind. Places where the walk crossed main roads and bus routes. Ringinglow was the last opt out point. Once I'd set my nose for Porter Clough, I was pretty much committed to finishing the walk. But sadly, the last few miles were less enjoyable in terms of appreciating the woodlands.



Here the route passes Forge Dam, the Shepherd's Wheel and Wire Mill Dam before taking me back to Hunters Bar through Endcliffe Park. I had made the right decision though. This was the part of the walk I was the most familiar with but which had the least impact on me this time. It was early evening by the time I got to Endcliffe. There were crowds there again. Children on the playground, teenagers playing football. I took the most direct route through the park and was lucky enough to get on a bus as soon as I hit Ecclesall Road again. The walk had taken me about 8 hours in total and I was all bluebelled out!


Extra points for:

  1. Improvements to Derby station. Finally looking like it's part of the 21st century, even though restricting arrivals/departures to 2 platforms seemed to cause a ot of delays.
  2. Sheffield Bus drivers. Friendly bunch.

  3. Black tulips at the Bishop's House

  4. Herons along the route

  5. Ramsons everywhere. The leaves are nice in your sandwiches apparently.
  6. Meeting an old colleague, Sally Booker, quite by accident along the route. Sally, you really haven't changed a bit!











Points deducted for:

  1. Lack of toilets on the route

  2. Grafitti on the sculptures on the Sheaf Valley Walk

  3. Eating far too much cake
  4. Not having time to go inside the Bishop's House

  5. Poor signposting around Gleadless valley

  6. Almost getting hit on the head by a golf ball on the edge of Beauchief golf course.
  7. Forgetting to bring spare camera batteries. Mine died just before Ecclesall Woods. Pictures of the walk between there and Endcliffe are courtesy of last year's walk . Yes, I cheated.

Monday 4 May 2009

The Ally Pally Ritual

Date: 18th - 19th April 2009
Purpose of trip: The Big Stamp Show, Alexandra Palace
Getting there: Bus to the station, train to London St Pancras. London transport buses and tubes
Travelling companions: None

I seem to be a creature of habit, nay ritual. I seek out experiences that have given me pleasure before and try to recreate them. This one never fails to hit the spot, although I have tried to vary a few of the details.

Breakfast at Muswell Hill is not negotiable. It really sets me up well for the day. Costa Coffee of course. A hot savoury panini type thing and then pudding! I normally have a meal at the Palace but after this, liquids were sufficient.

Alexandra Park is always a delight. Only that one foggy day last year has it not been blazing sunshine when I've been. The trees were magnificent and the rhododendrons were promising great things.










A great show as usual. I didn't want to have to check all Saturday's purchases into the cloakroom with my backpack on Sunday so I left most of the buying until the final day.

Overnight was at Borehamwood as usual, but the Innkeeper's Lodge seems forever beyond my budget for this trip now. I'm familiar with the bus journeys I need to get there now and although it takes a while at the end of a long and tiring day, I don't mind being a little way out of town.

I left the show before the bitter end on Sunday but had 3 hours to kill before my train. So I decide to take a minor detour to Covent Garden to eat. I had in mind some of that delicious paella. Big mistake. They were cleaning the pan when I got there and the hot dogs on offer...well...it's just not the same is it? So I discovered Creme de la Crepe just a few steps away. Delicious pancakes (yup, I had the savoury Billy Goats Gruff and the Strawberry cheesecake dessert pancake too) and of course the wonderful ambience of Covent Garden, with it's string quintet(?) easily audible from the next courtyard.



I was still in lantern mode from Venice so had to take a picture of these.


There was still some time to spare and I didn't want to spend any more of it at St Pancras than I really had to so I went walkabout around Covent Garden and had a good look at Freemasons' Hall.

It took a while to work out what this imposing building was because there is no large sign or plaque to identify it. But when I did work it out I was very interested, partly because my great grandfather Ephraim Streatfield was a freemason and partly because of the rather severe looking lanterns.


There was still time for a browse in Foyle's at St Pancras and coffee and chocolate twist in Costa before the train. The journey was good until we were delayed just outside my home station, when we were told there were trespassers on the railway. I'm assuming we didn't hit them.

Extra points for:
  1. Costa Coffee. Not only was I served by a gorgeous Sardinian barista (at Muswell Hill) who made very pleasant conversation and flashed his lovely teeth at me, they seem to have got their act together with the food. Chocolate twists not only at 8.45 in the morning but (at St Pancras) at 6.45 in the evening too.

  2. The catering van in the hall who had perfectly chilled fruit juices when the venue's own catering could only offer hot or fizzy drinks.

  3. The security man who said good morning and goodbye each day with the biggest beaming smile. Was he being nice or was my dress tucked into my pants?

  4. Meeting Elaine from the Graphicus Guild. My teenage son warned me in advance that I should never arrange to meet up with people I've got to know on the internet. But Elaine was lovely and we seemed to have a lot in common.

  5. Travelodge. This was one of their newer lodges. The room was a bit minimalist and the dining room basic but they served a good breakfast and I got a very passable three course dinner for around £10. It was football semi finals day so, being cheap and close to the A1, the lodge had a few fans staying over. But on the whole it was quiet and convenient. I'll probably book again for September.


Points deducted for:

  1. The ventilation at Alexandra Palace. 30 mins to open the roof vents, they said. So they didn't bother.

  2. East Midlands trains. Not enough seats for everyone at St Pancras. Apparently this is a regular problem on a Sunday evening.
  3. Whoever was on the train line when we were returning home. Does life not throw enough curved balls for these people as it is?

Saturday 25 April 2009

Venice - Thursday


The weather forecast for Thursday had been bad ever since we had set off from home so we were expecting to have to write the day off. But it turned out to be pretty good. We set off on foot across San Polo and Santa Croce to visit the Rialto markets where there were some stunning mask shops.


We had promised ourselves a gondola ride if we had any money left on the last day and we spotted our opportunity whilst pausing for coffee close to the Rialto Bridge.
Guide books tell you not to expect your gondolier to sing to you (although you can pay ahead for a serenaded gondola tour). But our gondolier not only whistled and sang but also looked like Richard Gere. What more could we ask for?








He took across the Grand Canal and through a maze of smaller canals past Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Marco Polo's house.


After the ride we headed back slowly, saying we mustn't get distracted along the way. But when we got close to the bus station at Piazzale Roma, we allowed ourselves to stop for a ham and mushroom omelette and then a final impulsive visit to a handbag shop.

Lanterns were the theme of the holiday for me and I took lots of pictures of them. These are the ones which hung outside that last restaurant on the Fondamenta San Simeon Piccolo.








All that remained was to retrace our steps to Marco Polo airport via the hotel in Mestre and hope that the sun would be shining at home too.

Venice - Wednesday

On Wednesday morning we walked across Santa Croce and San Polo to Campo Santa Margherita. It was quieter than I'd expected but we caught a few fresh fish stalls and were not at all tempted to buy the squid!




We then made our way to the Grand Canal where we jumped on a vaporetto to go to St Marks's Square. It was busy but stunning.




Then we made our way back to Cannaregio where we caught a vaporetto to the lagoon island of Mazzorbo. It felt very different from what we'd experienced so far of Venice. There were a few buildings that looked like farmhouses and open fields alongside the canal. We walked for a little while then turned a corner to reveal this view of Mazzorbo's neighbour.




Across a bridge we reached Burano, famous for its lace and local fishing trade. Pictures of Burano often show its coloured houses and I had imagined it was always the same row of houses. But all the houses along Burano's canals look like these.




Burano felt quite distinct from Murano. There were plenty of shops and restaurants catering for the tourists but the sights and sounds of Via Baldassarre Galuppi were those of the locals, especially as it drew towards evening. We ate at Restaurant Galuppi where our waitress brought us complimentary glasses of limoncello at the end of the meal.

In contrast to the rest of the island, the vaporetto station on Burano was quite modern and high tech. It had been a long day and we still had to change boats at Fondamente Nuove and get the bus back to Mestre.



Friday 24 April 2009

Venice - Tuesday

Tuesday was spent on the Venetian lagoon island of Murano, famous for its glass. Murano has its own Grand Canal and the wonderful Rio del Vetrai, lined with shops selling all kinds of glass including the most fantastic chandeliers.


Around the island are many glass sculptures.





We walked through the island to Piazzale alla Colonna where we sat to eat at the Gran Caffe Laguna.











We all ate mushroom risotto but I'm more likely to remember the ice cream I had - 8 euros worth of black cherries, chocolate and vanilla ice cream and cream.



The vaporetto ride back to Venice took us past the cemetery island of San Michele and through the Cannaregio canal, which I had not seen before. We arrived back as the sun was fading and casting the most wonderful golden glow on the buildings. We wandered around the Fondamenta dei Tolentini for a while, collecting photos of the reflections of the buildings and bridges in the water. A glorious end to the day.